Workhorse Diagnostic Assistance

Posted by Alan 10/06/2016 83 Comment(s)

We offer Technical Assistance for your Workhorse RV Chassis. This technical support includes Drivability, Auto Park Brake, Steering and Handling, and Electrical issues. Our staff is experienced and helpful for repair shops around the country, or RV owners that just need a little guidance. We also offer a full range of Genuine and Aftermarket parts for the Workhorse Chassis through our parts distribution site www.urvp.com. Please leave us a question or feedback about what we have done or can do to help you.

83 Comment(s)

Steve Barka:
01/27/2017, 04:57:40 PM, Workhorse 8.1L gas 2004.
Reply

Starter won't engage when temperature is below 40 degrees. Battery tests good, cleaned cable connections, tried auxiliary battery switch, clicked but no help. Jumped starter solenoid and started right up. ???

Alan:
01/30/2017, 03:26:34 PM

Steve, That is a good one, I would test at the starter relay in the under hood fuse block, check and see with the relay removed to see if you have a ground being provided to pin 85 or 86 when the key is turned to the crank position. If you do see a switched ground at one of those pins, then see if you have 12 volts at the other pin either 85 or 86 when the key is in the run position. Do these tests when the coach does not start. Let me know what you find.

Pete Bustabad:
03/28/2017, 12:12:48 PM
Reply

Do you have anything like the stabil-air suspension kits for w-22??

Alan Sanders:
03/30/2017, 09:13:43 AM

Steve, We do not have anything that is like the Stabil-Air kit that Workhorse previously had available. The suspension kits we offer do not use air bags, you can see those kits here http://www.brazelsrv.com/Package-Deals/Suspension-Packages/Workhorse-W20-22-24-Suspension-Packages .

Keith Conley:
05/04/2017, 08:18:01 AM
Reply

Hello, I have a 2008 Winnebago Destination 39W, on a 2007 UFO Chassis. Of course it's a 8.1 with a Allison 6 spd. I want to know, what the torque value is for the Koni 99B-3209 front shocks, upper and lower. I need to know what that value is for tighten. Also, I need to know the Torque value for the rear's as well. I have the 8805-1002. Any help would be appreciated. I look forward to seeing you guy's on the trail, as I have some upgrades I may need. You have come very, very recommended. Thanks

Alan Sanders:
05/17/2017, 11:01:14 AM

Keith, Sorry for the delay in response. The torque for all the 3/4" grade 8 bolts are 420 lb ft with dry threads, and 320 if the threads have anti-seize or other lubrication on the threads.

Norman Gunderson:
06/19/2017, 05:42:41 AM
Reply

I have a 2008 Workhorse 8.1 that seems to have the wrong ppm programed in the ECM. The speedometer reads right about 10% faster than it should compared to my GPS. The milage is out also. Can you reset the ppm to correct this? I still have the stock tire size, so I think it has been this way since new. I just bought it a year ago and would like to get it to read the correct speed and distance. Thanks for any info.

Alan Sanders:
06/19/2017, 07:14:52 AM

Norman, Could you email me your VIN so I can see what you have? Once we have that, we can discuss what is going on. Please email the VIN using the contact form. Looking forward to helping out.

Mike@ Sals autoER:
06/29/2017, 09:30:47 AM
Reply

I am working on a 2002 Workhorse W22, 8.1. The owners were heading home to Wisconson in this rig they had purchased at a small "Mom and Pop" car lot in Ocala, Florida. They made it to our sister shop in Gainesville, Florida, and the rig went into " reduced power" mode, with no throttle response. The tech there cleaned the T-body, and it seemed good, until they got back on the interstate, where they limped it to our shop. I scanned for codes, and got the dreaded P1518. It was late on a Friday, and I really have no info on that chassis, so they were going to try a local RV dealer, but got little response. They flew back to Wisconson, and left the rig with us. Without a wiring diagram its tough to diag, so did the next best thing...throw parts at it. Replace the throttle pedal, no change, tried a new t-body, nope, then the TAC module itself. Nothing seems to help, but we can return the pedal and t-body. I am trying to check the Data lines from the TAC to the PCM, but cannot verify which ones at the PCM are the proper wires. I have been attempting to use a diagram from the same year 3500 Van with the 8.1, but am struggling with which "orange/Black, cir. 1061" and Dark Blue/White cir. 774" is at the PCM. The PCM is getting no info from the module, but cannot determine if the module isn't sending, or if the PCM isn't recognizing and processing it. There is very limited throttle response, maybe from 800 RPM to 1600 RPM, with the throttle wide open. The rig is a 2002 and only has 4750 mikes on it. I have looked for evidence of rodents, but found none. Any help/direction would be appreciated. We are getting no help from the RV dealers in the area. Thank you! Mike

Alan Sanders:
06/29/2017, 11:56:13 AM

Mike, I have sent some information to your email.

James Addison:
06/17/2018, 02:25:56 PM

If like to get a hold of the wiring diagram also... Having same issue same motor.

Alan:
06/18/2018, 08:00:35 AM

James, I have sent the diagnostic information for that code to your email.

chris dyess:
08/10/2018, 08:59:08 AM

I am having the same problem. I have a 2005 Fleetwood Motorhome and the 8.1. I slowed to turn and the engine light came on and reducing power warning light. was runnung good up to this point. Any help would be appreciated Chris

Alan:
08/13/2018, 05:19:44 PM

Chris, If you have had no other symptoms other than this one and the issue has cleared and not come back then I would not worry. However if this is still a current issue, then I would say that there are many things that can cause that problem but most common is the TAC module itself. You will need to scan your engine for codes and send me the code you are getting and I can send you some diagnostics for it.

Crosby Kennett:
08/07/2017, 07:27:27 PM
Reply

Hi Alan, I have a new to me workhorse chassis with a Fleetwood Terra on it. I replaced the headlight switch and started having problems with the headlights. After headlights turned on for about 30 or 40 seconds the headlights cut out (both) and flicker and don't operate. I took it to a reputable truck shop and they said the DRL module was NG so replaced the whole dash wiring harness. $$$ and still have the problem. They said the switch tested okay. With headlight switch in intermediate position DRL provide reduced power to headlights with no problems. Turn on the headlights and you're okay for a very short while until they all kick out. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you. Crosby

Alan:
08/08/2017, 12:08:14 PM

Crosby, Could you give me a call so we can discuss? There are some Q&A's that we need to go over. 360-736-9494

Steven Johnson:
08/31/2017, 05:58:38 PM
Reply

2008 Winnebago Destination on a UFO chassis. Having problems with the auto brake release. When the yellow button on the dash is pushed to release the brake you can physically feel the brake release but the dash displays "parking brake on" with a red ! flashing. When this occurs my brake lights illuminate and stay on all the time. No one seem to know how to fix this problem. Coach has been in the shop for two weeks, need help.

Alan:
09/18/2017, 07:25:49 AM

Steve, Please contact us VIA phone to discuss the issue. 877-786-1576 Ask for Alan.

Ken Horn:
11/16/2017, 09:10:14 AM
Reply

I have a 2005 Workhorse P32 with the J72 brake system. It is a Winnebago Sightseer. We were in a campground for about 2 weeks when I started the engine. The brake pump started to run immediately. I did a brief experiment to determine that the RV is moveable but, sine I didn't have to go anywhereI. shut it down. There was no indication of a problem prior to us parking. Any thoughts?

Alan:
11/16/2017, 09:14:59 AM

Ken, Sounds like the parking brake module or the parking brake pump relay are having an issue. I would unplug the controller and start the engine to see if the pump still runs. If it does then you need a pump relay, if it does not then the controller is the issue. Either way I would recommend the US2078 kit that will replace the controller, and install a line lock. This is so the brake will not apply while you are driving the coach, and burn up the 3K$ brake on the back of the transmission. We have the kits in stock with free shipping.

Ken horn:
11/20/2017, 11:53:11 AM

Replaced the pump relay. No difference. Read the install instructions for the kit. Mine is a P32 chassis and the mounting instructions are for a 24 chassis. Not clear----does the kit replace the proportional solenoid? If not, would failure of that solenoid cause the motor to run?

Ken horn:
11/20/2017, 11:58:43 AM

In addition, why does the blue hydraulic line need to be disconnected at both ends? Can't it be disconnected from the block and then connected to the new unit?

Ken horn:
11/20/2017, 11:58:45 AM

In addition, why does the blue hydraulic line need to be disconnected at both ends? Can't it be disconnected from the block and then connected to the new unit?

Alan:
11/20/2017, 12:58:41 PM

Ken, You are correct, there are no instructions for mounting the controller on a 2005 P32 chassis. However it comes with two self drilling screws and can mount where ever the wires reach. All the rest of the installation instructions are the same. As far as the blue hydraulic hose, that depends on how the mounting arrangement ends up for the Ultra Save valve itself, sometimes it is better to turn the hose around due to one end having a 90 degree and the other end being straight.

Ken horn:
11/20/2017, 01:30:33 PM

OK. What about my question about the proportional valve?

Alan:
11/20/2017, 02:57:19 PM

Ken, Our kit does not replace that valve. You are correct, if you are having an issue with that valve that could make the pump run on and not build pressure, but the pump would not run with just ignition on and not in drive if the controller was operating correctly, and that valve gets it's 12 volts from the controller.

Ken Horn:
11/21/2017, 07:41:40 AM

So then, ,the us2078 kit should solve my problem? I noticed that the instructions said nothing about bleeding the system. How is that done?

Alan:
11/21/2017, 07:56:21 AM

Ken, Yes, the US2078 should cure the issue you are having. The system is self bleeding, just cycle the pump a few times.

Ken Horn:
11/29/2017, 09:47:05 AM

I have installed the kit and everything seems to be working just fine. It was quite a challenge to mount the parts on this P32 chassis. Ended up using stainless steel pipe clamps to hold the valve in place. For everyday driving maximum safety, should the valve be in the bypass or non-bypass mode? Thanks for all your help.

Alan:
11/29/2017, 12:45:20 PM

Ken, Glad to hear that you are operational again! You would want the red knob pressed in and turned clockwise.

Gary Croson:
02/28/2018, 04:53:33 PM
Reply

Hello Alan, I purchased a 2003 Winnebago Adventurer 35U workhorse chassis 8.1. I drove it 2hr after pickup and it ran fine plenty of power. I stopped and filled the tank and it started running rough and would not do over 10-15 miles an hr. I stopped on the side of the road for about 5-10minutes with the motor off and it restarted just fine and no miss and plenty of power. The next several days started right up in the driveway and we went to have the propane tank filled and were on the road for about an hour cut the motor off and it took about 20 minutes to fill the tank. I started the motor and it ran very rough and could not go more than 10-15 miles an hour. I stopped on the side of the road for about 10 minutes with the motor off and it started right back up and ran like nothing happened plenty of power no miss. I have a code reader and the codes were P1516 and P0151 . Before I go and start throwing a lot of parts at it what would you suggest. I have checked at the throttle body and the Tac for broken wires by pulling each wire and doing the wiggle test while it is running but no luck in having it fail vin # 5B4MP67G733364685 The motor home has 18530 miles and I have all the inspection papers and work done. I notice the spark plug wires were changed twice at 14000 and 15000 mile because of cyl 5 and 6 wires were bad. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Alan:
03/02/2018, 11:06:18 AM

Gary, I have sent you some diagnostic information via your email for the P1516 code. This will be the issue if you had a "Reduced Engine Power" displayed on the dash. Usually it will come back to the TAC Module itself, but it could be several other things also :-) Take a look through the diagnostic I have sent and see if that helps to narrow it down. I would have posted that information here, but it does not copy and paste well for the format of it.

John Olszewski:
03/16/2018, 09:30:31 AM
Reply

I have a 2005 Winnebago ( VIN 5B4MP67G453403770 ) on a Workhorse chassis. A 5 speed Allison transmission. The connector came off of the OD switch. The cable labeled OD SW has two connectors on it. Would you know which connector goes on the OD switch? Switch has 6 lugs. One connector has a black and gray wire. The other connector has a black,purple,orange, and gray wire. Thank you very much. You have my Actia instrument cluster doing the 105297R repair.

Alan:
03/16/2018, 11:13:44 AM, www.brazelsrv.com
Reply

John, I have sent you the wiring diagram for your overdrive switch to your email. Please let me know if you have any further questions :-)

John Olszewski:
03/21/2018, 04:13:43 PM

Sorry,but I did not receive any wiring diagram yet. Thank you,John

John Olszewski:
03/22/2018, 10:39:28 AM

Could you please email me the wiring diagram again. Thank you,John.

Steve Sensenig:
03/24/2018, 05:24:01 PM
Reply

2005 Damon Intruder on a Workhorse chassis with the Chevy 8-cyl engine. A couple months ago (we've been relatively stationary since, trying to solve this problem so we can continue traveling), pulled up to a stop sign after an uneventful 2-hour drive, and the engine stalled. After that, it would stall at idle, and I would have to give it gas to stay running, then "two foot" (one on the brake, one revving the engine) to put it in gear and pull away. It would run ok once I got up to speed, but acceleration was pitiful and it still felt a little rough. And as soon as I came to a stop, if I didn't "two foot" it again, it would stall. So far, we have replaced all the plugs and wires at one mechanic, had another convince me it was a bad tank of gas, so changed the fuel filter and put fresh gas and additive in, but the problems still remain. The first mechanic thinks it might be related to the EMC as they unplugged a couple of sensors and said the computer didn't throw any codes. Any other thoughts? And if it is possibly the EMC, how does one get it tested and/or replaced? I can't find information online about it, and the mechanic claims he called around with a part number Workhorse gave him and couldn't find a replacement computer anywhere. :( Not exactly what I'm wanting to hear, ya know? ;) Anyway, any advice you might have would help tremendously. steve :)

Steve Sensenig:
03/24/2018, 05:29:25 PM

Sorry.....ECM, not EMC ;)

Alan:
03/26/2018, 07:36:12 AM, www.brazelsrv.com
Reply

Steve, I would check the injector and coil harnesses. If there are no codes, it is probably the power supply to one of the banks on the engine. The computer sends grounds to the coils and injectors to fire them, there are two fuses the supply the left and right bank constant power to each of the coils and injectors. I would bet there is an issue with one or both of the power supplies to those harnesses. I have seen many things that caused issues similar to this, one was the A/C compressor pulley rubbing on the harness, and also some failed splices, plus stretched wires. Try moving the harnesses on the top of the engine on both sides with the engine running to see if you can make it run better with the movement of them.

Dean Schmidt:
04/16/2018, 02:13:31 PM
Reply

2004 Workhorse Chassis p32 under a fleetwood tiera. Cruise control is not working as it should. When pressing the "SET" function at speed I get a momentary (slight rpm) boost as I might if I were setting the cruise. However a release of the SET switch the vehicle goes back to manual speed. Continuous pressing the the SET switch does a this momentary rpm adjustment but I cant get the Cruise to go into SET Mode. All fuses have been checked and the brake switch has been checked as well. So wondering if this issue is in the TAC module or other? thanks in advance. Dean

Chuck Shrode:
04/26/2018, 03:29:48 PM
Reply

I purchased a (Harbor Freight) "Zuric ZR8" OBD2 Code reader, specifically for use with the Workhorse Chassis, W22. After making the connections, the code reader indicated that there was compatibility issues with that vehicle. I do not understand if the problem is the "reader or the vehicle. I did try to update the software and spoke with a representative, who claimed the reader was new and that no updates were available. Question: is the subject vehicle compatible with OBD2, other than just for smog testing?

Gary Croson:
05/31/2018, 05:51:22 AM
Reply

Hi Alan ,would you have vacumm routing for a 2003 winnebago adventurer 35u w22 . The dash a/c stops blowing when climbing a steep hill.It will come back on after grade. Thanks Gary

Alan:
05/31/2018, 07:35:23 AM, www.brazelsrv.com
Reply

Gary, There really is no vacuum diagram, but usually the vacuum is taken off the back of the intake manifold and ran directly up to a vacuum ball under the hood. This is done by the body builder. Now also, the A/C compressor clutch is set to be disabled by engine load and throttle position. That is done that way to provide as much of the engines power as possible to the wheels when you are demanding it.

Gary Croson:
06/02/2018, 04:07:55 AM

Thanks for getting back.

Linda H:
06/19/2018, 03:01:48 PM
Reply

I have a 2003 Winnebago Adventurer 33V on a workhorse chassis. I need new and hopefully brighter headlights. Any suggestions as to where to obtain?

Alan:
06/19/2018, 04:17:36 PM, www.brazelsrv.com
Reply

Linda, Normally headlights are not something that we get into, due to them being a body builder part. However I do know that some coaches are not getting enough amperage to the headlights through the factory wiring. So I would suggest starting with checking to see what voltage you have at the headlights when the engine is running and the lights on. You should have at least 13.5 volts (or close to it) at the headlight connector. If you do not, then I would suggest wiring in a relay to each headlight so that you get proper battery voltage to them, making them as bright as they can be. Connecting the relay... - Cut the power wire to the low beams about 6 inches from the connector on the headlight - Install that cut wire onto pin 86 of the relay - Ground pin 85 - Connect pin 30 to a 30 amp fuse or breaker - From the breaker or fuse straight to the battery - Last connecting pin 87 to the cut wire left on your headlight connector

Peter LaPointe:
01/03/2019, 06:33:34 AM

Hello Alan, this is very helpful to me and I will make this mod but I think I have a deeper problem. Yesterday while driving my headlights dimmed to nothing. Dash lights died as did rear view camera monitor and 12v power sources (cigarette lighter). My AC quit working and my levellers suddenly deployed without any input! My AFT running lights are getting 12v while my headlights and forward running lights are getting 6v and 4v respectively. I've tested all the relays I can find (all test good). I've checked grounds, alternator and belt, all good. Chassis battery is holding 13v. I'm basically dead in a Lowe's parking lot and need to get home (300miles to go)

David A. Griffin:
07/05/2018, 01:51:12 PM
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Hi, Alan. I have been trying to reach you by phone (had left three messages on voice mail) to follow up on my telecon with you about my autopark issue on my 97 Fleetwood Storm (I had given you the last eight if the VIN). Would you prefer to call me back at 719-687-0911 so I can report on what I found out after your suggestions, or do you want me to email you the findings? Look forward to hearing back from you one way or the other. Thanks.

David Griffin:
07/10/2018, 01:33:26 PM
Reply

Sorry I missed your call today. I left you a voicemail. When you get a chance please call me at 719-687-0911.

DAVID GRIFFIN:
07/11/2018, 11:14:09 AM

Alan: I just sent some info as follow up through your CHAT LINE about what we discussed concerning the LIGHT SWITCH.

Roger Heikes:
07/14/2018, 09:29:30 AM
Reply

Hello Alan, 2003 Winnebago Adventure 35U on Workhorse W-22. Have lost operation of drivers side low beam. All other lights work and function. When switching between low and high the drivers side acted like the element was going until if finally failed. A check of the bulb found it to be good. Replaced headlight fixture as I found one mounting tab missing. Also, I had just replaced headlight switch along with dimmer switch. Have since reinstalled original headlight switch. Same problem continues. Any suggestions would be appreciated before I did into this. Do the low and high beams operate thru some kind of relay?

Alan:
07/18/2018, 04:11:41 PM, www.brazelsrv.com
Reply

Roger, I have sent you some wiring diagrams for the headlight circuits. From the looks of it, if you lost only one side of either high or low beam then it would be in the wiring if it is not the bulb. This is because the lights share the same circuit side to side.

Roger Heikes:
07/18/2018, 10:29:39 PM

Thank you for the wiring diagrams. I intend to study them as I believe this problem is not yet over. I was all set up this morning to run a wire from one side to the other just to make the left side work if powering the circuit backwards to locate the problem area did not work out. Upon turning on the lights to verify that I was on low beam that left light came on. Thanks again.

Brad Fyfe:
07/19/2018, 11:04:17 AM
Reply

Hi, I have a 2001 Winnebago brave with the 8.1 gm engine. It has a problem that no one has been able to fix. It runs great for the first 30 minutes. After that, it tends to pop under a load such as climbing hills while towing a trailer, or just climbing a long hill. Mechanics have replaced the crank sensor, fuel filter, plugs, wires, oil, fuel pressure regulator, 02 sensors, and air filter. We even dropped the tank and redirected the return fuel away from the fuel pump pickup and drilled extra holes in the bottom of the plastic bowl that the pump sits in just to make sure that it gets fuel. Nothing fixes it. We put a fuel pressure gauge on it and ran it up Pack Monadnock Mountain to see if the pressure would drop off, but it didn't. My thought is that something starts failing when it gets very hot. I will not see any issues until it has run for a good half hour, then the popping starts under load. It will run fine at about 1/2 throttle so I usually back off of the gas to stop it. It only has 18,000 miles on it. Do you have Any ideas???

Russel Smith:
08/06/2019, 03:43:54 PM

That bowl the fuel pump sits in can't do it's job with holes drilled in it. It is there to hold fuel available for the fuel pump when the tank is low and also when going up steep grades so the fuel pump doesn't lock up. Also do not see that the MAF sensor has been cleaned or replaced. If dirty it will make the fuel burn lean and may have something to do with the burnt plug wires. Normally the 8.1 does not damage plug wires.

Alan:
07/19/2018, 11:39:34 AM, www.brazelsrv.com
Reply

Brad, I would suggest our data recorder part# UPREC not to sell you something, but I think at this point it would be the smart choice before I guess like everyone else has. What will happen once you order this part, we will have you plug it in to your OBD2 port and drive the coach until you are able to repeat the issue. You would email the data file for us to review after you capture the failure on the recording. We will review the data file and give educated advice on what to check to pin down the issue.

Brad Fyfe:
07/22/2018, 09:15:32 AM

Hi, I called in to you guys but got a different guy who seemed very knowledgeable. he said to check the wires. I explained that I replaced them with Taylor 409 extreme service rv wires for my 8.1 chevy (2001 Winnebago brave 31 on p32 chassis). I went to check them today, and sure enough, the rear left Taylor wire was burned right through its boot and insulation. I ordered a set of Access ceramic boot wires to try out, and I'm going to get the Taylor wires because they are under warrantee. I'll have them as spares. I hear that there is a cooling kit from Workhorse because of this issue, so I'll look into this as well.

Larry Dufour:
08/28/2018, 07:04:17 PM
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Hello: I just recently purchased a 2004 Motor home with the 8.1 workhorse chassis. When I pulled into the garage for the inspection sticker a machanic said it smelled like it is running very rich. He thought it might be the fuel pressure sensor. I am only getting 6.6 mpg. Should I replace the sensor? Thank you for your time

Alan Sanders:
09/06/2018, 08:15:15 AM, www.brazelsrv.com
Reply

There is not a fuel pressure sensor on that engine. I would get a scanner that you can monitor fuel trims on and see what they are showing for the fuel mixture adjustment. You can use something like the scan gauge 2 and program the LF1 and LF2 to see the long term fuel trims. Anything showing more than an adjustment of 10% in either direction + or - is more than what GM calls normal. Once you have that information let me know and we can start to figure out what is wrong.

Mike Lazaro:
09/20/2018, 04:06:11 AM
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Hi, I have a 2008 Winnebago Adventurer on a UFO chassis. Having problems with the auto brake release. When the yellow button on the dash is pushed to release the parking brake, it releases with no problem, however, my brake lights illuminate and stay on all the time. The cruise control and grade brake don't work and when the ignition switch is shut off the HCU cycles on and off to maintain pressure. Any help would be great appreciated..thank you

Alan Sanders:
09/20/2018, 10:27:19 AM

Mike, As far as the first parts of your complaint, you most likely have an issue with the brake light switch. That is located on the master cylinder, they call it a master cylinder travel switch, make sure that it is installed completely. For the last part, not sure why the brake pressure motors would be running with the key off. They should only operate with the ignition on. Here is what it states in the service manual for the HCU after replacing the entire unit..."Reinstall the 30-amp motor fuses and turn the ignition ON. Both motors will start running until both circuits reach the cut-off pressure at approximately 2000 psi (138 bar)." So that tells me that the key should be on before the motors are allowed to build pressure in the accumulators. It really would not make sense for them to be allowed to operate with the key off, because the motors would run the battery dead. It sounds like you either have a wiring issue or an internal issue with the HCU. More often than not, the HCU has to be replaced. I will send over a diagram of you plug on the HCU so you can make sure that you are not getting 12volts at the ignition circuits when the key is off.

Mike Lazaro:
09/30/2018, 09:25:20 AM

Hi Alan, Thank you for getting back. Some feed back on how I made out.. I located the brake switch on the master cylinder as you indicated. Upon removing the plug from the switch the brake lights went off proving the switch defective. The interesting part is the HCU no longer cycles with the ignition switch off. Plugging the connector back in, brake lights went on and HCU started cycling again, with the ignition in the off position. Ordered up a new brake switch and installed and all is working properly again. Thanks again for your help.

Bob Ashton:
09/20/2018, 09:55:54 AM
Reply

We also have a 2008 Winnnebago Adventurer Limited on a Workhorse UFO chassis with what appears to be the same problem as Mike Lazaro. The auto brake release works when the yellow button is pushed in however, the brake lights illuminate and just stay on permanently. Not sure whether the cruise control works or not as it is something we don’t normally use but the grade brake doesn’t work and when the ignition is shut off and we are level, the HCU is cycling on and off on fairly regular 10 minute intervals. This problem was evident before the HCU was replaced in June because of all the warning lights and alarms indicating a failing HCU. Replacing the HCU solved the warning/alarms problem but had no effect on the brake light, grade brake, frequent cycling HCU events. Our turn signals work, but the 4 ways only flash in the front but not the back. Any help would be much appreciated.

Alan Sanders:
09/20/2018, 10:37:10 AM

Bob, If you have checked your brake light switch and that checks "Okay" then you will need the Wabco "Toolbox" toolbox software to do further testing to see if the brake light signal is being switched properly by the HCU module. This would apply to Mike Lazaro as well if the brake light switch is working properly. As far as the HCU motors cycling, that is normal and should be expected when the ignition is "ON".

Bob Ashton:
09/20/2018, 01:40:09 PM
Reply

Al, where is the brake light switch?

Alan Sanders:
09/20/2018, 04:34:32 PM

Bob, it is located on the master cylinder. The Workhorse part # is W8002767 you can find that on www.urvp.com there is a line drawing of it. Looks like at the moment there is 1 available if you need it.

Rick Sieminski:
09/29/2018, 02:05:27 AM
Reply

I get the dreaded "Reduced Power" message, and codes P0120, and P2135. I have: replaced the Throttle Body(TB)/TPS replaced the TAC *still get the error checked the continuity from the gas pedal to the C2 on the tac checked the continuity from the throttle body connector to the TAC, and from the TB end they are all fine, but there's more pins on the TAC C1, than on the TB I have traced 3, if I remember correctly, to the ECM/TCM (4, 5, & 14) 2 seem to be grounded (6 & 15) the documentation that I have says 15 is ground, BUT 6 is supposed to be "CHMSL SUPPLY VOLTAGE"? Could this be the problem? and 3 I can't seem to find out where they go (7, 12, & 13) the documentation that I have says 7 is "IGNITION VOLTAGE", 12 & 13 are "UART SERIAL DATA"? BUT I can't seem to trace them Any ideas? Thanks, --Rick

Alan Sanders:
10/04/2018, 08:44:05 AM

Rick, What is the last 8 digits of your VIN?

joie:
10/14/2018, 02:38:59 PM
Reply

2005 winnebago adventurer workhorse w22 dash says "No J1050 Activity". Had this show a couple months ago when we got in to leave on a trip and was a blown fuse outside but checked all inside and outside fuses and all are good and have 12v. Coach was running fine till some idiot in a CRV cut us off so she had to get on the brakes pretty hard and when she did the engined died and now gives this error trying to restart. Any ideas?

Alan:
10/17/2018, 12:38:02 PM

When the dash shows no J1850 activity that means the cluster cannot communicate with the PCM. Does the engine crank?

joie:
10/19/2018, 03:10:19 PM
Reply

Engine doesnt even attempt to crank. Unplugged replugged cluster still no luck checked all fuses no luck looked for loose wires no luck and OBD2 scanner gets no response from ECU.

Alan Sanders:
10/24/2018, 07:24:48 AM

Joie, I would double check the ECM/TCM fuses under the hood...This sounds like a failed TCM. It has an internal issue and pops the fuse for the ECM and the TCM due to them both being on the same circuit for the power supply. If you do find a blown fuse for them, unplug the TCM and reinstall the fuse and see if it pops again, if it does not then plug it back in and see if it pops then. If it does after it is reconnected then you will need part# 29537441 from the www.urvp.com site.

Mac kinsella:
10/23/2018, 10:28:43 AM
Reply

I have a 2006 Safari Simba on a Workhorse Chassis 8.1ltr Alison Trans.after having the RV parked for a while I went to start it and all the gauges went haywire, rpm went about 11/2 in below its norm same with the speedometer and the gas gauge went as far to the right as is possible any help would be appreciated. incidentally where are the chassis ground points on this RV Thank you Mac Kinsella

Alan Sanders:
10/24/2018, 07:29:04 AM, www.brazelsrv.com
Reply

Mac, You should remove the cluster and send it in to us with your information inside the box so that we can check it on the bench to see what is going on with it. You probably just need to have the gauge motors replaced. We do not charge any thing to check if for you, you would just need to pay shipping. If there is something wrong with it we will call you and you can choose to have us repair it or not. Most of the grounds meet at the back of the head on the drivers side of the engine.

Mac kinsella:
10/27/2018, 09:09:56 AM

Thank you Alan, I have the cluster out right now and the motors are visible, I am leaving for Texas next week for the winter and that would be the best time too send it out, if it is the motors do you have any idea what the cost of replacement would be/ Thanks again Mac Kinsella

Peggy:
10/30/2018, 04:15:05 PM
Reply

Hi, I have a 2004 Damon Daybreak P32 Workhorse 8.1, recently had both front ABS sensors replaced, drove it home about 2 weeks later went out put gas in it, drove it about 20 miles no problems. Couple of days later replaced a part In the electric Steps, turn on RV to see if steps worked and engine light came on and reduced engine power displayed in lcd. Drained and replaced coolant after reading several post. Reduced engine power went off but engine light is still on. Any help or info you can give me would be great! Thank you in advance for your reply!

Alan Sanders:
10/31/2018, 07:41:41 AM

Peggy, The reduced engine power is only activated by the throttle system. Here is what the engine controls manual states about "Reduced Engine Power Mode" REDUCED ENGINE POWER MODE When the PCM detects a condition with the TAC system, the PCM may enter a reduced engine power mode. Reduced engine power may cause one or more of the following conditions: • Acceleration limiting – The control module will continue to use the accelerator pedal for throttle control; however, the vehicle acceleration is limited. • Limited throttle mode – The control module will continue to use the accelerator pedal for throttle control; however, the maximum throttle opening is limited. • Throttle default mode – The control module will turn off the throttle actuator motor and the throttle will return to the spring loaded default position. • Forced idle mode – The control module will perform the following actions: – Limit engine speed to idle by positioning throttle position, or by controlling fuel and spark if throttle is turned off. – Ignore accelerator pedal input. • Engine shutdown mode – The control module will disable fuel and de-energize the throttle actuator. You will need to scan the engine computer for the code that is stored, then I can send you the diagnostic information for that code.

chad g clayton:
12/19/2018, 06:22:19 AM
Reply

I have a 2006 Magellan RV 35', workhorse chassis. The periodic problem sends a lean code which shows oxygen sensor, left bank. I know this is just a symptom. It runs fine, generally until I am in warmer weather going up a long incline, then it loses power and shifts out of overdrive. It seems like it is going into limp mode. When I pull over and stop and then try to accelerate, it has very little power, then it will backfire and gain power, after I take off and drive for 3 or 4 minutes. During those 3 or 4 minutes it usually won't get above about 10 mph. If I clear the codes and let it sit for 5 minutes it usually takes off like nothing is wrong and may not have the same issue for 50 miles or 500 miles. When it is having the problem at a stop I can press the accelerator pedal and the RPMs usually won't go above about 3,000. It seems like it always runs rich on the left bank, as the tailpipe is blacker than the right side. The mileage is never above 7 mpg.

Alan Sanders:
12/19/2018, 12:33:56 PM

Chad, I would recommend getting a scangauge2 this will help determine the fuel ratio and how much it may be off. You will need to set it up to read the long term fuel trims. It almost sounds like you are having a fuel pump issue. If you scan the engine and you see the fuel trims going anywhere near 25% on either side that is not good. You can also get a data recorder from us and then we can take a look for you. You just plug it into the diagnostic port and drive, once it fails then plug the recorder into your laptop and email us the file for review. You can purchase one from our site the part# is UPREC. Without some further information from your engine it is hard to say what is happening.

chad g clayton:
12/19/2018, 05:39:44 PM

Thanks, Ala. I actually borrowed a scanner that gives live feed and at 2500 rpms the long term fuel trims were at around 17.4%. I am not going to be taking the RV out for another 3 or 4 months and it probably won't act up until I get to Eastern Washington. If you still think the data recorder is a good idea, I can get one and plug it in for the next time I go on a longer trip.

Andy Theaker:
12/19/2018, 10:21:29 AM, www.monstermoovers.com
Reply

I am having a problem with a 2005 Fleetwood Southwind on a workhorse 8.1. It was driven to it's current location a couple of months ago. Come to move it now and it won't start, the jacks won't come up and the dashboard throws out a long beep followed by 21 short beeps. To throw a little more light on the subject, when the ignition is first turned on, the jacks light comes on and they will move for a second or so, then the beeping starts and the power is lost. Also, the lpg / gas changeover is lit, then goes out as the beeping starts. The engine spins over quickly but won't fire. I suspect some circuit / sensor cutting the power to the jacks and fuel and probably other places (ecu?) preventing it from firing but it's got me baffled. I also suspect the beeping it trying to tell me something but I have no idea what! It hasn't thrown any codes, pending or otherwise. There is, apparently, an immobiliser / alarm on the vehicle but the owners have never used it and have lost the fob. I suspect the problem lies here, somewhere but not sure where to start as I can't find any information. I don't even know if this was a Fleetwood add on or a standard workhorse fitment. Thanks in advance for any clues you may be able to give me Andy

Alan Sanders:
12/19/2018, 12:36:39 PM

Andy, the security device is not from Workhorse. However, if you could provide your VIN I may be able to give you some direction that will if nothing else eliminate some things.

Andy Theaker:
01/26/2019, 07:28:28 AM

Hi Alan, thanks for the response, I didn't realise you had responded, apologies. I Checked the coils and injectors today. No power at either but the fuse that supplies them is live. I may however have not checked the injectors correctly as they all have a black wire and them another of various color from red, orange, yellow and I checked for power on the colored one... There is still this pronounce relay click a second or two after the ignition goes on, then most things go dead (the fuses for the injectors and coils are still live. I found two immobiliser 'keys' (the plug in types from Laserline) but can't find anywhere they go.. I don't even know if they are relevant to this vehicle but hard to see that they could be from another vehicle because if this was the case, that wouldn't be running lol. I can smell petrol so am guessing fuel is getting there. I don't know if I need to go back and recheck the injectors on the black wire. I considered running a 'hot' directly to a couple of the coils to see if they would fire but in light of the injectors, I thought I would ask first. A strange thing though, at one point - a couple of times - it did sound like it fired very briefly. Whether it's optimistic imagination or not, I'm not sure. The VIN number is 5B4MP67G053402714 Thanks so much for your help. Andy

Alan Sanders:
01/28/2019, 02:38:43 PM

Andy, Do not run power to the coils. The coils are fired by a ground from the computer and have a constant hot from the fuse to them. The very first thing to do is get a code scanner and see what codes you have stored in the computer. Let me know what you find.

Andy Theaker:
01/29/2019, 01:57:10 AM

Hi Alan, I scanned it initially and it had thrown any codes, pending or otherwise. I'll do it again and come back to you.

Andy Theaker:
01/30/2019, 08:30:26 AM

I have run a full scan and there are no codes, current or historical, which amazes me. The ECU appears to be communicating fine with the scanner

Ssonny Truitt:
12/28/2018, 09:39:50 AM
Reply

I have a 2003 Monaco Safari Trek with the 8.1 vortec engine. Recently programmed the Scan Gage to read fuel trims and they were high....25 at idle and approx 15 cruising. Cleaned the MAS, verifid clean air filter an ran fuel injector cleaner for two tanks. Now reads 18 at idle and 2-8 cruising. I think this indicates a vacuum leak but am having trouble finding a place to check. A vacuum line diagram would help. Also, right bank is always about 2% higher than left bank. Any ideas? Thanks. PS I'm running Brazel's switches on the APB and have no worries.

Jon Brazel:
01/03/2019, 04:13:14 PM

Hi Sonny, High fuel trims at idle that reduce under load are almost always a vacuum leak. I don't have a diagram but the most common spot I see leaks is at the back of the intake manifold there is an unused port that should have a rubber cap. Sometimes this cap develops a crack or is completely missing. I am not worried about the 2% split on the banks, if it was 5 or more then I would begin some investigation. 2-8% under load is perfectly fine, specification from GM is +/- 10%.

Joie:
01/09/2019, 03:25:14 PM
Reply

Do you guys have a pinout for the ECM? I cannot find one so I have no way to test if power is getting to the ECU. 2005 Winnebago Adventurer 37B on a W-22 chassis.

Alan Sanders:
01/09/2019, 05:40:07 PM

Joie, I sent you an email with the information that you would need.

Richard E Vie:
01/10/2019, 11:30:51 AM
Reply

Thanks for all the help with my workhorse w22 holiday rambler MH. The second tcm controller worked perfect so far. Finished our trip to Florida with better gas mileage and better driveability than ever. But after driving short distance w tcm removed to get to repair center in Mississippi a ck eng (little eng block on right side of instrument panel) lit up. After putting in new tcm light stayed lit. Nothing wrong showing on any gauges and nothing showing up on the scan gauge. Engine runs perfect. Any ideas?

Alan:
01/10/2019, 11:32:57 AM

I would go and have the codes cleared and see if they come back. I am sure it is because it was driven with the TCM disconnected.

Jeffrey Cox:
01/31/2019, 06:13:05 AM
Reply

I have a 2006 Allegro Bay Vin#5B4MPA7G553408432. W24 chassis.Having problems with the J72 park brake system. The pump was running constantly and not releasing. I found the park brake housing assembly was leaking internally.I replaced the housing and hose that goes to it. I cracked the line going into the housing and cycled the auto park(released the brake and put in gear). The pump runs constant and is not building pressure. How can I tell if the pump is no good or if the solenoid valve is not working or stuck? Is there any other things that I should be aware of in my testing? Thank you.

Alan Sanders:
02/07/2019, 10:07:44 AM

Jeffery, see this diagnostic article. I think that it would help you , this one is for if you have a US2078 kit installed, but it will still help you run down the issue. https://help.brazelsrv.com/hc/en-us/articles/360021860692-J72-with-US2078-kit-Pump-runs-continuously

Gary A Croson:
02/03/2019, 09:36:09 AM
Reply

I have a 2003 winnebago adventurer 35u workhorse . I purchased this unit used and I seem to be missing a air dam that screws to the firewall over the radiator is this a part that should be on the motorhome for cooling? Thanks

Jon:
02/04/2019, 12:27:23 PM

Yes there was what they called an "Air Diversion Panel" that covered the opening around the top and sides of the cooling pack to help direct airflow through the coolers and radiator. Unfortunately this is no longer available from Workhorse but can be fabricated with a rubber material sourced locally. Here is a link to a picture of what was previously available: https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/W0005312-Baffle-Recirculating-Air-Side-(Air-Diversion-Panel)

Andy Holstad:
03/01/2019, 11:16:15 AM
Reply

I have A 2003 workhorse W 20 chassis. I developed a electrical short circuit when The articulating steering column wore a hole through one wire in the wiring harness that runs from the ignition switch to the base of the steering column where there is a harness connection block. I would like to remove that harness from the steering column to repair the damaged wire. The termination block for the harness next to the ignition switch has some security type screws. What do they call the screwdriver that can remove those security screws, (they are like reverse torx head screws)?When I remove the block which is next to the ignition switch will I have any surprises like a spring popping out or parts dropping off? Thank you for your time and any possible suggestions.

Alan Sanders:
03/11/2019, 09:06:16 AM

Thank you for calling, let me know if you need further assistance!

Gerry Linneweh:
03/10/2019, 08:16:57 AM
Reply

I have a 2005 Winnebago Horizon. Recently the running lights are flashing with key in the accessory or off position. It was intermittent but seems to be happening more and more. Any ideas?

Alan Sanders:
03/11/2019, 09:07:17 AM

Gerry, Could you send me the VIN for your coach to help@brazelsrv.com.

Rich Holley:
03/14/2019, 10:00:30 AM
Reply

I have a 2007 Workhorse W24 Chassis VIN# 5B4MPA7G373427516 that is new to me. Purchased with 90k on the clock; however one owner with a long list of maintenance records. When purchased, I noticed a significant misfire when driving, and brought it into the Chevy dealer I work at. Right off we discovered a broken spark plug wire on #5, and changed all the plugs and wires. This solved my issue for the next few hundred miles, then last week on a drive from the storage yard to my home, she started to miss again and heard a couple of backfires. I downshifted and the miss went away. I decided to bring it in again to put a Tec-II on it and hook up the laptop to see what the issue was, and on the way in, I noticed she was hesitant and missing under acceleration, but only on the 2nd part of the trip after she warmed up (note- no lights or codes thrown). Here is what we found when we plugged in.... 1. An intermediate miss in cylinder #5 starting at 2500 rpms, and ceasing back down around 2000 rpms. 2. Only occurs on a hot engine. Sat overnight and this morning- no misses could be seen. 3. Replaced coil pack on #5 cylinder with no change when hot. 4. Confirmed spark plug and wires (replaced two weeks ago) were good. AC Delco plus and Napa Wires. My mechanic believes it is heat related, based on the clean cycle it ran this morning and possibly electronic related. I am sure that you have heard of similar issues... any thoughts or things to check while I have it here? Thanks for all you guys do. Rich Plant City, Fl

Alan Sanders:
03/14/2019, 10:34:18 AM

Rich, This is a very common issue. I would replace the plugs and wires with these part#s and you will not see the issue again. Spark Plug Wires SPW8100, Spark Plugs 41-101. We have these in stock and the wires are a solid stainless core lifetime replacement wire. If you are not showing a code and you have a misfire on #5 this is most always the issue. I would check for an exhaust leak around the manifold that may be leaking onto the wire contributing to the accelerated failure of the wire.

Rich:
03/14/2019, 02:22:25 PM

Thanks so much for the prompt reply, I will look up these parts.

Rich Holley:
04/29/2019, 11:06:18 AM

Hi Alan, Good morning. I have 2007 W24 chassis VIN# 5B4MPA7G373427516 that is having an issue with the brake pedal not fully returning after being pressed. My cruise control will not work and my brake lights stay on. I can slightly pull up on the pedal with my foot and everything is fine, but once I let go it drops enough to disengage cruise control and activate brake lights. I have greased the zerk fitting on the on the linkage tube under the hood, and otherwise the brakes work fine, the pedal just falls an 1/4 too low and activates the brake switch. Is there a brake return spring on these pedals, or is there any other advise you can give me? ** Update on previous issue. I ordered and installed your Magnum wires and the issue was completely resolved. Thanks again! Thanks for your help Rich

Alan Sanders:
04/30/2019, 07:30:14 AM

Glad to hear that your coach is running good now! Thanks for the update. As far as the brake light issue, it is common for the brake light switch to get out of adjustment because your foot can catch on the pedal and pull it back too far when climbing out of the seat on an RV. When the pedal gets pulled back it also pulls the light switch with it and can break the retainer. I would check the switch and retainer for damage. If it is okay the. You can just readjust it. To do this you just press the switch through the retainer into the contact plate on the brake pedal arm. It will make a sound like your running your finger nail across a comb when pressing it back in.

Rich Holley:
04/30/2019, 10:22:43 AM

Alan, Thank you so much for the reply. Yesterday I inadvertently submitted this same question online that made its way to Jon. He replied with the same advice and last night I was able to push the switch back in, make contact an fix the issue. As I mentioned to Jon, we are very lucky in the Workhorse RV community to have you, Jon and everyone at Brazel's RV as a resource for the many questions and issues that arise on our motorhomes. Thanks again for all you do. Rich

Francois:
03/26/2019, 08:26:55 AM
Reply

I have a Dolphin Motorhome on a 2002 Workhorse W22 chassis. The last two times it rained, the rear brake lights were always on. The cruise control was still working. The hazard would flash once and the signal lights in the dash would stay on at about half intensity. The brake lights on the vehicle we were pulling, were also on. Only the right turn signal would work but not the left. Turning the engine of did not help. I tried stopping and pulling some of the brake related fuses, but it did not make a difference. We drove another 40 minutes on a dry road and everything went back to normal. Any ideas?

Alan Sanders:
04/01/2019, 08:08:00 AM

Francois, I would be willing to bet the tow plug on the car or the coach is filling with water and draining out as rain stops.

Chris:
03/27/2019, 04:39:27 PM
Reply

2005 Itaska on a Workhorse P32 chassis, Vin 5B4LPG443397036. The charging warning indicator keeps going off, both audio and visual. But it's reading 14.5 volts on the instrument panel. Replaced the alternator, no change. Inspected all of the electrical harnesses, visually look good. Checked for any DTC codes, Found DTC P0622 - Generator F Terminal Circuit. What does that code mean, does it have something to do with the ECM. Also what amp alternator is supposed to be in this unit, the one i installed is a 130amp. Any help would be very much appreciated. Thank you

Alan Sanders:
04/01/2019, 08:01:24 AM

Chris, I sent you an email with some helpful information on this issue. Let me know if that gets you any further along.

Bryan:
04/01/2019, 12:39:49 AM
Reply

Ok I stop reading for my issue, so here is a good one. 2004 33" Adventure. My slide out driver side, when retractingvit the front side starts coming in and the back side lags way behind. It's getting worse. Looks like it's binding up but the last time I shoved on the back side and while retracting it didn't feel as if it was binding. . I heard about if it out of sink, but over my head how to do that. Any help would be awesome

Alan Sanders:
04/01/2019, 07:58:47 AM

Bryan, Unfortunately I have no information on your slide system. I would contact Winnebago to find out what slide system that your coach uses. I believe that your coach uses HWH slide systems? Once you know for sure what brand and model, you can contact the company that makes the slide mechanism for technical assistance. Hope this helps!

Bryan:
04/01/2019, 10:47:49 AM
Reply

Thank for the quick response and I'll give them a chat.

Steve Hanke:
04/02/2019, 09:29:52 AM
Reply

I have a 2002 W22 chassis (Bounder / Fleetwood). The fuel gauge all of a sudden stopped reading accurate. It takes for ever to come off full and as far as I can tell never catches up to accuracy. Also it takes for ever to fill the tank, I have to feather the nozzle. Also on a couple occasions gas has leaked out coming off the top of the tank somewhere when filling. I'm wondering if you can point me in the right direction for a solution.

Alan Sanders:
04/10/2019, 08:13:44 AM

Steve, there are probably two issues. For the slow fill issue...Take a look below around the fuel tank and follow the fill tube from the tank to the point where it reaches the fill neck. Check to see if at any point the fill tube does any of the following: Flatten out, Has a low point before it reaches the tank, Not slope toward the tank, Has a kink in the hoses. Once that is solved then you can fill your tank normally. As far as the fuel gauge you can do a self test on the cluster to see if it is the stepper motor on the fuel gauge. Place the coach into park and turn the key to the "On" position, set the parking brake and then hold down the "Mode" button for 20 seconds. When you let go of the "Mode" button you will be in the menu. Once in the menu, letting it sit in one spot for more than 3 seconds is like pressing enter to select the highlighted menu item. When you first go into the menu, press "Trip" button twice and that will select the "Cluster Diagnostics" once that is selected, just let it do its thing. It will sweep through the gauges and tell you on the screen of the cluster what gauge should be doing what. Just make sure that the gauge matches what the cluster is saying it should be doing. If it all matches up then the issue will be with the sending unit and you will have to replace the fuel pump. If it does not match up then you can send it in and we can rebuild it for you.

Thomas De Winter:
05/06/2019, 08:16:47 AM
Reply

2004 W22, Allison 5 speed, 62k miles. I installed 41-101 plugs gapped at 0.060" and new ACDelco wire 2 years and 20k miles ago. Occasionally I'll get a couple loud pops and a miss when a grade causes a downshift to 3rd gear and rpm's jump to around 4k.Fuel filter may have been original so I replaced with no change. There are no engine codes stored. I got the first plug wire off ok but destroyed the 2nd one leaving the connector still on the plug. I've ordered a set of SPW8100 wires and want to avoid this problem at next plug change. Can I use some dielectric grease or something else to prevent this problem? I seem to remember the last 41-101 plugs I installed had a thin disk on the ground electrode adjacent to the hot electrode. The new 41-101's I got doesn't have this. Should they? Also, they came gapped at approx 0.035". I've regapped to 0.045". Thanks!

Alan Sanders:
05/06/2019, 06:32:16 PM

Thomas, The spark plug wires will not come apart like this generally if you remove them by giving them a full twist around the plug before pulling out on them. I do not remember any disk ever being installed so I would not worry about that. But if you install them using the dielectric grease you should be fine, that is all we use when installing them here. You correct in checking the gap before installation, I never trust them until I check them with my own eyes. You can gap them at the 45 or you can do 60 as well, we have tested both and the 60 seems to give a bit more on the dyno.

Robert Cossey:
05/06/2019, 05:47:26 PM
Reply

2004 W20 8.1 with Allison 5 speed. Cruise control problem, was intermittent operation, now appears as constant, will not engage. I have checked the fuse, disengage switch on brake pedal, brake light bulbs, power to and thru the on/off switch is good. The local Chevy dealer doesn’t have a diagnostic tester to plug into system. Are there any common checks I can make on the motor home to diagnose the problem?

Alan Sanders:
05/06/2019, 06:35:23 PM

Robert, Without a Tech2 to check and see what the computer is doing and seeing, all you can do is guess. If you have verified the things you say you have then my guess would be the TAC module. The part number is 12588924 we have this available on the www.ultrarvproducts.com website and the www.workhorseparts.com site as well in stock.

jim weber:
05/15/2019, 03:44:31 PM
Reply

I have a 2005 W22 8.1 Allison 5 speed. my problem started with the battery light coming on during acceleration, and then turning off at speed. thought it was the belt, I changed idler, tensioner, belt with new. No change. replaced the alternator, no change. I still get the battery light and now when accelerating from a stop the trans will pop into neutral, all the lights on dash come on almost like a power failure, then they go off, engine stays running, I have to shift it into neutral then back to drive to get going. This only happened a couple times. Most of the time at highway speeds no problem, stop and go is where it seems to happen. Ive checked battery connections also good. My next guess is replace the TAC. I also have received the P0332 code a couple times, and cleared them with no issue. MH has 41,000 miles. Would appreciate advice. Thanks

Alan Sanders:
05/15/2019, 04:51:16 PM, www.brazelsrv.com
Reply

The code that you are getting is "DTC P0332 Knock Sensor (KS) 2 Circuit Low Frequency" that would not be the cause of the issue that you are describing, but possibly one of the results. I would test the voltage that the alternator is putting out when you are at idle then see what it goes to when you give it throttle and you see the light come on. Do you have after market headers like Banks installed on your coach? If so I would be willing to bet that if you look under the coach on the passenger side you will find at some point the battery cable off the starter is touching the header or header heat shield. That would cause all of the above symptoms. Let me know what you find.

james weber:
05/16/2019, 10:46:02 AM

Well Alan you certainly know your stuff. I have stock manifolds and sure enough the positive to the starter was resting on the heat shield, and I can see where it has arched to it as I pulled it away. I will rap it and see if problem is solved. Thanks for your help.

Alan Sanders:
05/16/2019, 10:56:31 AM

James, I am glad you have it figured out. We are always happy to help!

Myrna Homan:
05/20/2019, 10:48:06 PM
Reply

I have a 2004 Fleetwood Southwind 32V, Workhorse, Chevy 8.1. I live in rural Alaska and I am on my own as far as maintenance on my coach. I was wondering if I could get a wiring diagram. I have a drain on the chasis battery that I am trying to trace. There are two lights under the hood, inside the engine compartment. One of these lights stays lit even with the hood closed but I can not find where to turn it off. Also, I have lost power to the dash radio and back up camera, the related fuses are sound. Thank you for any assistance you can provide.

Alan Sanders:
05/21/2019, 07:20:47 AM

Myrna, Those sound like body builder supplied systems. Could you provide the last 8 digits of your VIN?

Myrna Homan:
06/14/2019, 04:30:43 PM

I just realized you responded, so sorry for my delay. The last eight of my VIN are: 43390340. Thank you so much.

Alan Sanders:
06/17/2019, 08:46:14 AM

Myrna, You would contact Fleetwood on that issue. Here is there number (800) 322 - 8216.

Myrna Homan:
06/17/2019, 10:14:42 AM

Thank you

Stephen Nagy:
06/03/2019, 03:00:19 PM
Reply

Hi Alan, We have an 04 W22 8.1 with approximately 44k miles. The coach has been sitting quite a bit the past two years but I do take it out in the fall and run the fuel down to about 1/4 tank then top it off and add a quart of Lucas injector cleaner and Stabil gas treatment for 75 gallons. I went over in early spring and started it with no problem and decided to drive it around the storage lot. It seemed to run OK when cold but when it reached normal operating temp it lost power and I was lucky to get it back to it's parking spot. Today I went back and same thing happened only this time it backfired with black smoke coming out of the left tailpipe. I shut it off and let it sit a bit and restarted it without a problem but the shuttering and backfire returned so I parked it. From all the records I have I don't see that the plugs or wires have ever been changed. Before I start throwing stuff at it do you have a recommendation for a scan reader and where you would plug it in to get any codes. I don't have any check engine light on or any reduced power messaging on the dash. The Vin # 5B4MP67GX43377285. Any info and or recommendation is appreciated. If you need anymore information that I may be able to answer just give a shout. Thanks Steve

Alan:
06/04/2019, 09:22:14 AM

Stephen, If you have never replaced the plugs and wires at 44k I would start there anyway. As far as a scan tool I would use a Scan Gauge 2 for just reading codes. If you are really advantageous you can purchase a Tech 2 Scan tool for GM products and you will be able to affectively trouble shoot most any issues with your chassis. If the plugs and wires are not the issue, I would start out by checking fuel pressure and codes. Once you have that information pass it along to me and we can go from there.

Stephen Nagy:
06/08/2019, 09:04:20 AM

Al, finally got back to address the issue. My neighbor scanned it and turns out it is the TPS. Hopefully it will be here in the morning and we get it changed out. After that I'll get the coach home to do the plugs, wires, fuel filter etc. Thanks for getting back with me. Steve

Travis McQueary:
06/06/2019, 10:44:05 AM
Reply

Hi, I have a 2003 Itasca Suncruiser 33V with a 8.1 Workhorse chassis. I have a problem with the computer losing throttle position and putting the rig in limp mode until you pull over and shut it off and restart it then it runs fine. It will only do this if I have turned the cruise control on during that ignition cycle. I drove from Phoenix to Quartszite and back and from Phoenix to Prescott with out issue. All three trips I left the cruise control off and had no issues. On the way back to Phoenix from Prescott last weekend I turned on the cruise control and used it for 10 minutes then shut it off. Within 20 miles the computer lost throttle position and went in to limp mode. I pulled to the side of the road restarted and continued on with no problem. It has shut off in the past while using the buttons to adjust speed, while the control is on but not engaged and if I have turned it on used it then turned it off, I have pulled the throttle body and cleaned the connection and checked the wires. I have also checked the connections to the pedal all seems fine. I don't really want to through money at it by just changing parts until it goes away. Could it be a computer problem. I would like to swap the computer and see if it change anything. What do you suggest. Thanks

Travis McQueary:
06/09/2019, 12:47:21 PM

It did blow a P1516 code.

Alan Sanders:
06/17/2019, 08:50:59 AM

Travis, I have sent the diagnostics for that code to your email. I personally would suspect the TAC module because that is what operates the cruise control.

Travis McQueary:
06/17/2019, 11:11:33 AM

Thanks Alan. I am coming up with two different part numbers. I believe the correct one is 12588924 but I am also showing 12588923 as a newer version with updated data. My VIN is 5B4MP67G433356902 if that helps. If this corrects the issues I am considering your reprogrammed ecm and trans controller. I have 120k on the clock and thinking a better tune would help with pulling the big hills and limit the wear and tear on the engine and trans by not having to rev so high. Any issues with the amount of miles? Anything else to consider with this upgrade?

DebV:
06/12/2019, 07:17:36 AM
Reply

Can you please tell me where the starter is located on a W22?

Jon Brazel:
06/13/2019, 10:03:54 AM

The starter is located on the passenger side of the engine, where the engine mates to the transmission.

DebV:
06/13/2019, 04:30:50 PM
Reply

We have a w22 workhorse 8.1. It won't start and there is nothing on the instrument panels. We have tested and cleaned the batteries and connectors and checked the grounds. We appear to not be getting power from the chassis battery to the fuse box. Any ideas?

Alan:
06/14/2019, 10:15:34 AM

Deb, there is a fuse-able link from the starter to the fuse block under the hood. The way to test if that is the issue would be to use a jumper cable and go directly from the battery to the connection that is at the bottom passenger side of the fuse block assembly, Once that is connected see if the coach starts and operates normally. If it does then you need to replace the connection between the starter and the fuse block.

debV:
06/17/2019, 08:41:43 AM

Is there a negative terminal on the fuse block? Can we go positive to positive and negative to negative?

Alan:
06/17/2019, 08:43:23 AM

No, just the positive. All you need is to connect the positive side from your battery on the coach.

Larry Dufour:
06/18/2019, 05:45:52 PM
Reply

I have a 2004 P32 workhorse chassis, Admiral coach. I have a wiring problem with the brake. Sometimes when I push the brake pedal the both directional a come on as well as the dash light, sometimes only the left directional will come on. The directional so won't work when this happens and I was almost rear ended when I had to do a fast stop. Could this be the brake pedal switch or a short nearby. Driving me nuts in mMassachusetts Thanks for ur time

Larry Dufour:
06/21/2019, 06:34:30 PM

I have been waiting for a reply. Is this a problem u haven't had before. Any insight you may have would be appreciated. No shop near by wants to help and I need to fix the problem and I can't find the problem. If it is going to ground some where, is it the brake switch, or something in the main cluster? Thanks

Alan Sanders:
06/21/2019, 08:02:54 PM

Larry, generally these kind of issues are caused by a bulb or a ground issue at one of the bulb sockets. I would start by taking all the bulbs out and cleaning all sockets and checking the connections to them. The other thing to check is if the coach is using a bright light converter, sometimes those can fail and cause things like this to happen. These are installed either aftermarket, or by the body builder, so I do not have detailed wiring information or where it is located precisely, but they are generally installed right near the hitch.

Larry Dufour:
06/23/2019, 07:41:14 PM

Thank you Allen. I will start with the rear bulbs and go from there. As recommended in other posts I have changed the plug wires, spark plugs and just recently the starter supplied by your company and have had good luck with your products.

Larry Dufour:
06/25/2019, 05:22:40 AM

I removed the bulbs and they r in good working order. Checked for a bright light converter and ther isn't one. When I turn on the 4 way emergency flasher with the engine running the instrument cluster lights flash also. With out the engine running only the odometer light flashes. Any Idea what else may cause this?

Alan Sanders:
06/25/2019, 05:21:33 PM

Larry, sounds like a ground issue. Things are finding a ground through components in the circuit. That would be my first step, verifying grounds with a jumper wire to the grounds one at a time till the problem went away, then fix that ground.

Jeanne Warner:
06/21/2019, 08:44:45 AM
Reply

I have a 2008 Itasca Latitude on a Workhorse UFO chassis. Two weeks ago we were unable to get it out of park and were getting an ABS No Communication Error light on the dash. Had it towed to an area truck and bus place here in northwestern WI and they ran diagnostics on it. Code (which I do not have) came back stating the HCU was no good. They replaced it. They were unable to find the correct software to reprogram the unit. After copious run around with Workhorse/NAVSTAR/Winnebago and the HCU folks and then much trial and error, the unit has been coded. The RV works fine EXCEPT that the parking brake now functions backwards. The repair place has exhausted its resources. Can you recommend steps to find proper programming for the HCU so that we can reconnect the parking brake warning system and make the thing work correctly?

Alan Sanders:
06/21/2019, 10:13:34 AM

Jeanne, Unfortunately you will have to replace the HCU with the correct part# W8007417 to correct this issue.

Jeanne Warner:
06/21/2019, 04:13:26 PM

Hmm. You have heard of this before? According to the invoice, they installed S400851877 KIT, HCU-W/PB-HEBF001. Does that mean anything to you?

Alan Sanders:
06/21/2019, 08:12:31 PM

Jeanne, I have heard of this before, unfortunately it happens quite a bit. This is caused by installing an HCU not provided by Workhorse Parts. Any other HCU units that are purchased based on hardware numbers on the unit will not work. Workhorse writes their own software for these. So when they are used in the Workhorse chassis you must use a Workhorse provided HCU. Your part#'s that you have provided just reassure me that someone installed a unit that was not provided by Workhorse, and was sourced somewhere else. If that unit was provided by Workhorse then your invoice would not reflect a Wabco part# it would list the Workhorse part#. You would have to replace the unit with the part# that I provided in the post above to clear up this issue.

JERRY COLEMAN:
06/26/2019, 02:36:44 PM
Reply

just got your spark plug wires, going to install tomorrow. I need to know how to release the gas pressure to put on a fuel filter and I need to replace the rotten gray switch at the auto brake actuator how to release pressure\is the pressure applied with parking brake on or off 2003 workhorse P32 8.1L Winnebago Sightseer 30B 770-712-6979 or thewaya59@att.net Thank you Jerry

Jon Brazel:
06/26/2019, 05:22:03 PM

Hi Jerry - if the vehicle has been sitting for a couple hours, the pressure should be bled off enough that when you crack the fuel line it should only squirt a little bit. The auto park brake is spring applied and pressure released so with the brake applied you won't need to bleed any pressure off.

Mahlon Best:
07/10/2019, 02:35:24 PM
Reply

Thanks in advance for any assistance you can give. The trac-bar you sold us works great. Sorting out possible Crank Position Sensor failing?? '08 w22(?) Gulfstream 208" WB. 2007 chassis 35,267 miles. VIN 5B4MP67G573421990. Banks headers and intake, stock dual mufflers, no PCM tuning. New fuel filter from you on fresh gas. Getting no codes on an Actron reader. The engine will start and idle fine. Runs okay but with 25% LT Fuel ratios at steady state 60 mph and flat road. Short term ratios are all over the map. I can send you a 40-second MP4 video of a scan if needed. I have scoured the engine for vacuum leaks finding none. Have not sprayed the intake manifold with anything looking for leaks. Have 55 lbs of fuel pressure at idle but drops to 30s while driving. (High volume=low pressure??) The engine will randomly and suddenly lose all power, not respond to the gas pedal and torque converter unlocks. This typically starts at freeway speeds. No predicting for grades, elevation or load. Sometimes it will pull grades fine then other times after a grade it acts up. Has done it almost every time I pull into Bend from the 97 out of Klamath Falls. Once I chug to a stop, the engine runs very rough and then stalls out. Shut it off for 5 seconds and it restarts. After it does this once it will then do it several times until I stop for the day. Once I'm in a campsite, it will sometimes chug on 4 cylinders and then suddenly like flipping an electric switch return to a normal idle. I have cleaned the Mass Air Sensor, and I use minimal filter oil, which seemed to cure an earlier loss of power on grades problem. At least that is what I blamed it on. The engine would just lay over with no power. The engine has plenty of air around it in this configuration and the spark plug wires look/feel great. The engine burns no oil and seems really good otherwise. Help!! Thanks, Mahlon Best, Grants Pass, OR

Alan Sanders:
07/10/2019, 10:17:50 PM

Fuel pressure is dropping to 30 psi. Replace your fuel pump. That should resolve the issues. I believe you would need W0013952. Please call 800-417-4559 and give your VIN to verify that is correct.

Mahlon Best:
07/11/2019, 09:14:25 AM

What should the down-the-road and under load PSI be for the fuel pump? Would the lack of pressure cause the fuel trim issues with near constant lean 25% LT readings and highly fluctuating short term readings? As a separate issue: The tank stops drawing fuel when it gets near 1/4 full. I can only trust driving about 350 miles on a tank before it will have draw issues. Are there any fixes I could do while the pump is out. Possibly lower the pump in the tank. I assume there is no baffling in the tank to direct fuel toward the pump. VIN 5B4MP67G573421990 Thanks again.

Alan Sanders:
07/11/2019, 01:00:48 PM

It should always be 55-62 psi even under load. The lack of pressure would cause this, because if you only have 30 psi at the back of the injector when the computer fires it, the calculation will be incorrect for how long to keep it open. It is based on fuel pressure of 55-62 psi, it adds fuel based on how much air passed through the MAF sensor to keep the ratio correct. That is were you are getting your high fuel trims from. When the O2 sensors are seeing the excess oxygen in the exhaust, it is trying to add more fuel by leaving the injectors open longer. The computer can only leave the injectors open for so long before that combustion cycle is over. That is why you only see up to 25% and not more. As far as the fuel not drawing out after 1/4 tank, your fuel pump is failing so a normally operating fuel pump will not have the issue with the fuel level since it will come with a new level sensor, which is what I assume is happening with yours. It is misreading the level and is actually empty when it stops drawing fuel.

Mahlon Best:
07/12/2019, 01:32:34 PM

Thanks for your help. Looks like a new fuel pump coming up. Did a diagnostic on the gauge cluster and the gas needle reads 1/8 to 1/4 optomistic. Bummer

Richard Hutchinson:
07/12/2019, 09:02:30 PM
Reply

I have a 2002 P32 Winnebago Sightseer. Recently while parking the vehicle I went from drive to reverse and lost all power. Have run through battery/electrical tests with no luck. Have power to ignition switch but no power to dash. Won't turn over or start. Any ideas on what might be the issue would be appreciated!

Alan Sanders:
08/05/2019, 11:07:55 AM

Richard, Replace the ignition switch. This is a common problem with that chassis with the 8.1L. You will want to install the W8002085 Here is a link to purchase https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/W8002085-Updated-Ignition-Switch-Kit

Don Lentz:
07/15/2019, 11:50:49 AM
Reply

I have a 2007 Winnebago WFF 35A w on a Workhorse Chassis 8.1 gas engine with a Allison transmission. It seem to just likes to throw error codes. I borrowed a code reader and this is what they were P0102,P0332, and P0327 but I have no idea what they refer to. Could you please help me. What code reader works on Workhorse W22 Chassis with an 8.1?

Alan Sanders:
08/05/2019, 11:33:50 AM

Don, Check your email, I have sent you some diagnostic information for trouble shooting those codes.

Mark W:
07/15/2019, 12:15:55 PM
Reply

I have a 2007 Workhorse W42 with vin 5B4KPD2V173421387. I am having a speedometer issue that seems to be causing several other issues. It will constantly jump around. For example at a steady speed of 40 the speedo will go from 40 to 30 to 40 to 10 and then slowly back to 40. This will cause the transmission to downshift or sometimes just rev and lose speed. Also at the same time the cruise control when set will momentarily engage and then shut off. There is no engine light. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Alan Sanders:
08/05/2019, 11:53:16 AM

Mark, That sounds like a transmission issue. The dash cluster itself would not interfere with the operation of shifting or cruise control. I would bring it in and have the transmission checked for an issue, probably with a speed sensor. You have a 4L80-E transmission in that one, so a GM dealer would be your best bet on that. If they find that there really are no codes or issue with the speed sensors, I would suspect the ECM since that controls both the engine and transmission on yours. With no codes that may be where you end up since I would expect there to be a code for a speed sensor if it is failing.

Ron Cooper:
07/26/2019, 03:13:40 PM
Reply

I have a 2003 Itasca Sunflyer sporting an 8.1 liter vortex engine on a W22 chassis. The chassis and engine were built in 2002. Our RV has 27297 miles on the odometer. Recently I got a 341 and a 342 code from my OBD scanner. Both codes suggest a problem with the camshaft position sensor. I also started experiencing lower gas mileage (6.7 mpg to 4.9 mpg), occasional difficulty starting, and some back fires. During this time, the starter battery, the starter, and the spark plug cables have been replaced. The spark plug cables have been replaced with Taylor Extreme Service Series cables. The codes continued to rear their ugly heads. Next I replaced the camshaft position sensor with a sensor from NAPA. After I did that, the 341 code dropped. I still have the 342 code. Any help with this puzzle on how to locate and fix whatever is causing this code would be greatly appreciated. I have found a guy here in AL that works on problems like this. His scanner pulled up the code and we tried to relearn the sensor. Didn't have any luck. Perhaps you could point us in the right direction.

Alan Sanders:
08/05/2019, 12:08:19 PM

Ron, Those codes are both for the cam sensor so there is no relearn, that is for the crank sensor. I have emailed you the diagnostics for those codes.

Ed:
07/27/2019, 11:30:38 PM
Reply

Hi, I have a 2002 Tiffin Allegro. We just purchased it and are having major issues on out first trip. The rig first gave us issues while normal driving and we were able to limp it off the highway. No codes. We replaced the fuel filter and then the Mass air flow sensor. This seemed to work. We were good for about an hour and a half when we refueled. After we refilled, the rig started but then stalled and we were sitting ducks for about an hour. Once the rig cooled a bit, it started and ran like a champ until we got into traffic at a toll booth where it got hot again and stalled. This time, after two hours we got a crank position sensor fault. We got hit with a very large tow bill ($950) and are now have the rig at a shop that doesn't specifically work on these workhorse machines. The mechanic cracked the crank sensor while trying to remove it and left till Monday. Since we are in deep with this machine, is there anything else we should be looking at when attempting to repair this issue?

Alan Sanders:
08/05/2019, 12:11:07 PM

Ed, The early versions of these had an issue with the crank sensor and from what you are saying, it sounds like the symptoms of a failed crank sensor. The updated part# I have for that part is W8000525.

Jason Nielsen:
08/09/2019, 09:00:59 AM
Reply

I have a 2009 Itasca Latitude. When I start it up and put it in Reverse and sometimes drive(I think), it blows the fuse to the transmission display. It also blew the fuse one time while driving up the Alcan. Sometimes I will put 5-10 fuses in before it lets me get moving. It is not an Allison transmission Display(but does have an Allison 2500) and I am not at home to check the brand at the moment. Thank you for any help.

Alan Sanders:
08/28/2019, 07:22:59 AM

Jason, could you supply the last 8 digits of your VIN please? Those kind of issues can be difficult to locate, but I can send you a wiring diagram to help you visualize where that circuit goes and what it powers up.

Kilynn R Weber:
08/25/2019, 05:31:20 PM, www.happilywebersafter.com
Reply

We just bought a 2003 Holiday Rambler Traveler... It runs on the P32 Workhorse chassis. We did our pre-trip check and found the passenger rear tail light and backup light weren't working. No biggie replaced them and vroom away we went. Well about 400 miles later (almost back to our home) the red engine light came on. We stopped at autozone and it was diagnosed as p0332 knock sensor 2 circuit low. We decided just to put it away. When we did, the right rear tail light was out again. Just as a point of reference, we did have recent work done on the RV, the negative battery chassis ground was replace (it was completely removed before), the chassis ac was evacuated and recharged, two hard brake lines were replaced. Thanks in advance, Kilynn

Alan Sanders:
08/28/2019, 07:50:56 AM

Kilynn, The lighting at the housing is body builder, but were the bulbs actually blown or just not working? Most lighting issues we see here are resolved by either replacing the sockets or the tail light assembly, they just get corroded and loose over time and do not make good connections to the bulbs, they use lights from automotive applications that you can usually find cheap on Amazon. The knock sensor code is fairly common and is easily fixed, just install a new one. When you do just do not put anything on the threads and torque it to 15 lb ft exactly or it will keep throwing the code. That sensor checks for certain vibrations frequencies in the engine and if you put anything in the threads it cant read those correctly, that is also why the torque is critical.

Mary:
08/26/2019, 12:06:39 PM
Reply

We purchased a new to us 2003 Monaco Safari Simba, 29 feet I believe. We left the house on Saturday for an overnight trial run and as we made a left hand turn on to a one lane Interstate on ramp the RV died. No power, no brakes, no emergency flashers, nothing. Somehow my husband managed to steer it a little to the left side of the lane leaving just enough room between the passenger side of the RV and the on ramp's retaining wall for the semi's to pass through. VERY scary!! We were trapped and sat waiting 45 minutes for a tow truck (police arrived in 25 minutes, thank God for their flashing lights). While waiting, my husband tried periodically to re-start the RV - nothing. We had the RV towed to an RV repair shop. Any idea what might have caused this failure? Thanks for any info you might be able to provide. Mary

Alan Sanders:
08/28/2019, 07:58:51 AM

Mary, I am very sorry to hear about your dangerous event! I am glad you guys are okay. Sounds like you did not have any power to the dash area at all. If you can give me the last 8 digits of your VIN I can see what chassis you have. If it is a P32 then I would start with the ignition switch as those have an upgrade kit to solve a know issue. Remove the top plug from that switch which is located just under the dash on the front side of the steering column shaft. Check to see if the pink wire looks like it got hot. If so then install a W8002085. Here is a link for that kit https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/W8002085-Updated-Ignition-Switch-Kit

Jay Gilliam:
08/27/2019, 07:06:17 AM
Reply

I have a 2003 Allegro Bay with P32 chassis. Could you recommend a code scanner that will work with this chassis please? Thank you, Jay

Jon Brazel:
08/27/2019, 08:55:58 AM

Hi Jay, If you are looking for a scanner that doubles as a live data reader, we recommend the ScanGauge2: https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/SG2-ScanGaugeII-OBD2-Vehicle-Monitor

Armando Salinas:
08/28/2019, 04:41:49 AM
Reply

Checking 2004 workhorse misfire graphic. At idle 600 rpm, cycles of misfire data goes from from 0 to 100 then strats at 0 again. Is that normal. Engine load reds 2% . Culynders 1 n 8 has 3 accumulated current counters.

Alan Sanders:
08/28/2019, 08:07:37 AM

Armando, sounds like I would start with plugs and wires. Those engines are known to eat them up if they are factory style wires. I recommend installing SPW8100 wires as they will not fail like the factory style do, and install 41-101 plugs gapped at .045. If you have already checked and changed those let me know and we can go to the next step.

Bill Bartlett:
08/30/2019, 10:34:52 AM
Reply

2005 Monaco-Admiral on workhorse chassis-vin#5B4MP67G553403812-problem with cruise control: works sporadically, ok when first started but when shut off with brake will not reset. Also grade brake seems to be working whenever letting off of gas pedal. Also when applying brakes dash lights dim. Could this be a common ground problem affecting all of the problems??

Paul Ketelhut:
09/02/2019, 01:07:41 PM
Reply

2008 Tiffin Open Road on a Workhorse W22 Chassis with 79,000 miles, last 8 of the VIN 83432846. During Spring 9,000 mile trip the brake warning light came on. Brake fluid was full. Brakes worked fine. Light eventually went out. Couple thousand miles later the ABS light came on. Brakes still were working fine. ABS light sometimes comes on as soon as engine is started & other times won't come until several miles down the road. The ABS light usually turns off after driving several more miles. Had the ABS system checked & after several hours & phone calls the mechanic diagnosed the ABS module as bad. The mechanic said he had trouble diagnosing it because the coach was a 2008 but the module was from an earlier workhorse chassis. I now have the coach home & did not have mechanic replace module. 3 questions. Is there any connection between the regular (red) brake light coming on & later the ABS light coming on? Is there any simple way to test ABS module to confirm it's bad? If it needs replacing can you tell me where I can purchase a new module & how to be sure I'm getting the correct one? Thanks for your assistance.

Jon Brazel:
09/03/2019, 10:05:46 AM
Reply

Hi Paul, You have a W22 chassis which all use the same ABS module, so not sure why your mechanic thought you had one from an earlier model year. He may have been thinking of the W24 chassis, which does use a different brake system. If the two lights illuminate at the same time, it is usually indicative of an issue with the master cylinder pressure switch but if they are coming on independent of each other, it is hard to say what the problem is. A TECH2 scan tool would have no issue communicating with the ABS module, any GM dealer would have one and could at least get you the codes from the module. We sell replacement modules here: https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/W0000254-Module-Asm-Electronic-Brake-Control-W-bracket-

Paul Ketelhut:
09/03/2019, 01:00:47 PM

Jon, thank you for the quick response. I'm thinking replacing this module is not a DIY project with all that is involved especially bleeding the system. Is the core charge refunded if I ship the old module back to you? Besides Chevy dealers in my area, can you recommend any other facility in the Ventura County, CA area that work on workhorse chassis?

Jon Brazel:
09/03/2019, 01:20:06 PM

The nearest dealer I can recommend is McBride's RV in Chino, CA. The core charge is refunded once we receive back the old unit. Here is McBride's website for contact info: http://www.mcbridesrv.com/Make_Appointment.html

Paul Ketelhut:
09/04/2019, 01:22:21 PM

Thanks for all the information. I took it to the local Chevy dealer & the Tech2 scan showed the brake lights weren't working. We checked them & sure enough they were not working when brakes applied. Hooked up toad & brake lights on toad did not come on either. All other lights work. I checked all the fuses I could find for the brakes & ABS & all looked good. I replaced the brake switch attached to the brake pedal 4 years. When that switch went out it caused the cruise control to not be functional. The cruise control is working so can that switch still be bad? Would a bad ABS module cause the brake lights not to work? You also mentioned the possibility of a bad master cylinder pressure switch. Both the red brake light & ABS light are on together now. Would a bad master cylinder pressure switch cause the brake lights to not work? I know I'm asking lots of questions & really do appreciate you taking the time in helping me. Any other suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated.

Jon Brazel:
09/05/2019, 07:02:36 AM

Paul - I would start with the simple stuff first and check to make sure the brake light switch is adjusted. If so, I would then replace that switch. It is possible for the cruise to still work with a bad switch. Not sure if this will be related to the lights on the dash but it is a good place to start.

Tina Andresen:
09/05/2019, 01:24:28 PM
Reply

2008 Monaco LaPalma 38 PLT Gas Pusher: VIN 5B4MGF7G283428980 Workhorse. Initial incident involved losing all power 45 minutes into a trip at Clear Lake Iowa. I limped to the side of the road and when trying to restart had a check engine light. Pulled the battery cable to clear the code and went cautiously on my way. Decided to head for a campground close by. I never got above 40 mph. 10 minutes later I got "Engine Fan Supply Fail" on my dash readout. No check engine light. I pulled over and shut down. Started back up and it was cleared. Drove another 5 minutes and got the same "Engine Fan Supply Fail". After a few minutes, 2 more notices on the dash for RH and LH Oxi something. Made it to the campground and tried finding someone to look at it. Finally got a GMC dealer agree to let me bring it in. It was 25 minutes away. 8 minutes into the trip I got a new message on the dash. "Grade Brake Fail". Again, this was just on the dash, no check engine light. I turned off Grade Brake and the message went away. But 5 minutes later the "Engine Fan Supply Fail" message was back. Also, I intermittently saw the backup camera lose power, just for a blink, and then come back. The mechanic scanned for codes and said there were none. He checked the battery and alternator. Then he cleaned a cable on the alternator and said that probably fixed it. We test drove and immediately got all the dash warnings: Engine Fan and LH oxi. Took it back the the shop and he scanned again. He said since nothing was coming up on the OBD scanner there was nothing he could do. He said I had to find a workhorse mechanic. I tried one place and they were doubtful they could help but can't see us for over a month. I was offered to replace the alternator, but said it was no guarantee that would help (as the alternator tested fine). Battery is five years old. Any idea what is happening? I greatly appreciate your assistance!

Alan Sanders:
09/10/2019, 01:25:45 PM

Wow, that is an interesting one. The back up camera is on the house batteries so I would not think that would not be related. What really needs to happen is the coach should be brought to a dealer with CADET Software to see what the Body Control Modules are seeing happen. The body control modules control the fan operation so that would give you the best place to start. Without that information it would be very difficult to diagnose these issues. The only thing you can do without that software to lead you in a direction would be to find a dealer that can scan the engine codes properly, you should have some engine codes stored since you had an engine light, and you had some oxygen sensor warnings pop up so maybe there are some clues there? Try chasing the main power supplies and grounds for the chassis batteries. Sorry I cant be more help on this one, kinda have to have one like this in front of you to start going through it looking for clues. If you need some schematics or more information let me know.

Ron Cooper:
09/16/2019, 09:54:16 AM
Reply

Have a 2003 Itasca Sunflyer with an 8.1 liter GM vortec engine. VIN is 5B4MP67G323353746. Recently in a bid to deal with a P0342 code my mechanic installed your ECM and TCM upgrades. Shortly thereafter my cruise control quit working. The cruise control failure may or may not be related to the ECM and TCM upgrade. The cruise also quit working about 2 years ago. The tech then said that the brake switch was causing the problem so he replaced it. The cruise has worked fine until a couple of weeks ago after we put in the ECM and TCM upgrade. Any ideas on what I should do?

Jon Brazel:
09/16/2019, 02:46:22 PM

Ron - The first thing to check is if the brake light switch is adjusted properly. If you look underneath the dash at the brake pedal arm, you will see a switch that has a button on the end that the brake pedal arm is resting against. As you depress the brake pedal, it releases this switch, causing the brake lights to illuminate and cruise control to disengage. If the switch has "backed out" from pushing up against the brake pedal arm, it can cause the symptoms you describe. The switch is adjustable but you must be careful not to break the retaining clip that holds it in place. Please let me know if you need further assistance.

Tony:
09/18/2019, 03:39:56 PM
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I have a tiny problem I need help with that the shops can’t find, repeat or figure on my 1999 National Surfside workhorse Chassis. Two hours into any trip I lose all braking. Straight to the floor pedal. I’m getting good at alternative stopping techniques. I know my auto braking system has nothing to do with my regular brakes and is barely a braking system at all and barely keeps the RV parked on a minimal incline. So the master cylinder has been replaced, the brakes have been checked all the way around. The fluid has been replaced, all lines have been checked. But something I just found the other day, after braking the pedal was not returning to position, staying depressed about an inch but enough to keep the lights on. My question is this... can my brakes stay engaged enough to cause an over heating situation in which the brake fluid would boil? Which would cause it to vaporize ? And then render the brakes worthless? Because when it sits for an hour I have great brakes again??? Driving a house down the interstate with no way to stop it , while definitely entertaining and great for raising ones heart rate is getting kinda old and I’m thinking boring old brakes might be nice again. No one seems to understand what I’m saying when I say ZERO brakes. So I know it’s a tiny problem to some but to me it’s not so tiny any more esp when the last trip it was a lake directly at the bottom of the hill. Help? How can I fix this?

Alan Sanders:
09/19/2019, 08:31:09 AM

Tony, Your assessment of what is probably happening sounds right on. The brakes are dragging due to the pedal not retracting, causing the brake fluid to boil and aerate and creating the brake pedal fade. Your brake pedal not retracting is generally caused by one of two things, either the linkage that connects the brake pedal to the brake booster is needing to be lubricated, or the brake booster is causing this. Always start by lubricating the linkage as this is a maintenance thing anyway and should be done regardless. If that does not cure it then you would replace the brake booster. As far as the parking brake, if your coach parking brake is not holding well on an incline then you need to replace the brake shoes. The parking brake is a mechanical assembly inside the drum that is activated by a spring through a cable. This should never not hold unless the parking brake has been applied when you were driving, and based on your story I am sure it has been :-).

Mike Honkomp:
09/21/2019, 06:22:56 PM
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I have a 2004 Safari Trek (VIN 5B4MP67G643378871) which I believe is on a W20 or W22 chassis that has died twice; once while idling shortly after start-up and once while turning a corner after a 40 minute drive. Each time the engine restarted after a short wait. On a third short trip an audible buzzer sounded for a few seconds, but the engine did not die. After it died the second time, the Battery Charging System Warning light came on and the buzzer sounded. The manual says this warning light indicates the system is not charging the battery. Also, the warning buzzer indicates the charging system voltage is too high, too low or that the charging system has failed. My issue appears to be very similar to others in the blog. I presume the ScanGauge 2 that you carry would help the diagnosis; correct? Also, I noticed that you have on occasion recommend local repair shops in your customer's area. I am in the Dallas / Fort Worth area; any recommendations? Thanks!!! Mike Honkomp

Mike Honkomp:
09/22/2019, 05:38:41 AM
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I also have a second issue which involves drivability. Inside the front right “fender” there is metal structure made of ~1” square tubing and angled pieces. The welds have broken in two places for the 3rd time since I’ve owned the coach (~10 years). It causes the steering wheel / column to vibrate significantly. I presume the cause is an alignment or suspension issue. Where would you start to find the cause ?

Alan Sanders:
10/01/2019, 03:57:25 PM

Mike, that is a common issue. You just have to have the structure beefed up by a fabrication shop.

Mike Honkomp:
10/02/2019, 02:57:54 PM

Thanks Alan! I'll take it back to the shop that welded it back before and have them beef up the structure. Do you have any suggestions on my Battery Charging System problem I describe above? Thanks!!!

John Coulson:
09/30/2019, 11:02:35 AM
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I have a 2004 Winnebago adventurer 8.1l on a w22 chassis. Sometimes starts sometimes not. Code P0335 shows is this always going to be a replacement crankshaft position sensor or could it be something else. Thank you in advance

Alan Sanders:
10/01/2019, 04:04:47 PM

John, You have a code for a crankshaft sensor on a 2003 or earlier with the original crank sensor you will want to replace it anyway. They have an updated version of that sensor. If you take a look at workhorseparts.com at part# W8000525 you can see the orientation of the plug, that is the new version, if you compare it to the original one, the plug socket is rotated 90 degrees from the W8000525. This how you determine if the sensor is original.

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